The first and most important thing you have to do
is accurately find Top Dead Center this is not as easy as it
first seems
the Piston has to stop before it can start gong down so
there is a dead spot at TDC where the piston is stopped but the
crankshaft is still moving
not by much but enough to put the timing out and is almost
undetectable by poking a pencil down the plug hole
So you can either take the head off and use a dial gauge to
find TDC or make a simple STOP tool from an old Spark plug
5/16 X 3inch UNF bolt fits fits nicely inside
the plug once the Porcelain insulator has been removed
Screw this into the head and turn crank gently
until it comes to a complete stop against the tool,
then back off the bolt until you can just go over TDC
screw the bolt back in by a few threads at a time so the piston
again comes to a dead stop
Make a mark on the rotor and another permanent mark inline with
this somewhere on the Stator that is easy to see
now turn the crank in the opposite way until you again come to a
Stop and place another mark on the rotor in line with the
permanent mark on the Stator.
Half way between the two marks on the Rotor is TDC make sure you
measure it as accurately as possible and make another mark on
the rotor
The Timing on the D14 is 16.5deg Before
TDC and the D10 19deg btdc
so now all you have to do is measure in a STRAIGHT LINE on the
VERY EDGE of the rotor 10mm backwards from TDC and make another
permanent mark, the D10 is 12mm
so when this mark lines up with the mark on the Stator points
should be just opening
easiest is to use a simple battery/ bulb across the points so
you can turn the crank back and forth and watch the bulb go out
at the timing mark.
